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I recently attended one of my cousin’s baby showers and decided to make a Minion hat and bib set to give to her for her baby boy.  I thought it turned out pretty cute so I’m thinking of making another set for our baby-to-be.  We aren’t finding out what we are having so I guess I could always add a bow if it turns out to be a girl!  I am sharing the hat pattern with you in this post and I will share the bib pattern in my next post so stay tuned!  Please read below if you are interested in making a baby Minion hat of your own.

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HAT PATTERN

SIZE

Newborn – 3 months

MATERIALS

– 5.5mm (I) hook

– Caron United worsted weight (4) yarn in Mustard (main hat color and eyelid)

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in Black (strap of goggles, eye pupil, mouth, and hair)

– Lion Brand Heartland worsted weight (4) yarn in Olympic (trim of hat)

– Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice worsted weight (4) yarn in Rust (eye color)

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in White (eye)

– Loops & Threads Impeccable Glitter worsted weight (4) yarn in Sterling (goggle frame)

– Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving in ends

– Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS

– ch = chain

– sc = single crochet

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

SPECIAL NOTES

The first stitch of each round of the hat is done in the same stitch as the beginning chain. (All rounds start in the same stitch as beginning chain 1).

– Make sure to join your rounds to the first single crochet of the round with a slip stitch.

 

PATTERN

Main Hat

Rnd 1: Starting with yellow yarn, magic circle, 6 sc in circle, join to first sc of round. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join to first sc of round. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (45 sc)

Rnds 9-11: Change yarn color to black, ch 1, sc in each st around, join to first sc of round. (45 sc)

Rnds 12-22: Change color back to yellow, ch 1, sc in each st around, join to last sc of round. (45 sc)

Rnd 23: Change yarn color to denim blue (or whatever color you want for the trim, ch 1, sc in each st around, join to last st of round, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. (45 sc)

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Eye

Keep the back of the eye neat and easier to manage by running your loose ends under the stitches in the back so that the yarn “follows” your stitches around and is there when you need it for a color change.

Rnd 1: Using black yarn, magic circle, 8 sc in magic circle, join to first sc with sl st. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: Attach yellow yarn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st of Rnd 1 and in next 2 sts, sc in next st, **on the last yellow sc (the 7th sc), pull though brown yarn to attach brown yarn***, using brown yarn (and making sure to run your yellow tail under the brown stitches in the back of the work), sc in same st, 2 sc in remaining 4 sts of round, slst to first yellow sc of round, pulling though yellow yarn for slst. (7 yellow sc +9 white sc = 16 sc)

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The two pictures below show how to keep the back easier to work with by placing your brown (rust) stitches over the yellow tail so the yellow tail “follows” the stitches around so it’s right where you need it when you pick it up again. The pictures are taken from the back of the eye.

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The two pictures below show how to pull the yellow yarn through for the slip stitch at the end of the round.  Since the brown stitches were placed over the yellow tail in the back as shown in the two pictures above, the yellow yarn was exactly at the last brown stitch making it easy to change colors.

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Rnd 3: (You should now have changed color to yellow) Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st pulling through white yarn to change color to white, with white yarn (making sure to run your yellow tail under the stitches on the back so that the tail follows the circle around), 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, slst to first st of round, pulling through yellow yarn for slst. (10 yellow sc + 14 white sc = 24 sc)

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Rnd 4: With yellow yarn (making sure to run your white tail under the stitches in the back), ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, pulling through white yarn to change color on the second st, with white yarn (making sure to run your yellow tail under the stitches in the back), sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, slst to first st of round, pulling through yellow for slst, fasten off, leaving a long tail to slip stitch the yellow line across the bottom of the eyelid. Weave in all other loose ends on the back of the eye. Follow the directions below to embroider the eyelid line. (12 yellow sc + 18 white sc = 30 sc)

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Directions for Eyelid Line: Use a tapestry needle to chain stitch a line across the eye where the yellow section meets the bottom section of the eye. Do this by inserting the needle through the loop made after fastening off, then under the eye and back up through the front making sure to loop the tail end around the needle to create a chain stitch. Continue doing this across the eye by inserting the needle through the loop you just created. See pictures below for reference. Once you reach the end, weave the tail into the back of the eye to secure it and fasten off.

**You can also make the eyelid line using surface slip stitches with your crochet needle instead of fastening off and using a tapestry needle. There are tutorials around the web on how to surface slip stitch in crochet. I just prefer to use a tapestry needle to do this.

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***Round 5 starts the goggle frame. Make sure to crochet the rounds of the frame so that the back of the eye is face up. The right side of the work (goggle frame) should end up on the back of the eye so that when you fold the frame over to sew it, the right side ends up on the outside. Refer to the pictures for guidance.

Rnd 5: Turn the eye over so the back is on top (this is so the right side ends up towards the back of the eye). Attach silver sparkle yarn to the front loop only (which is actually the back loop if you are looking from the front of the eye) of a stitch from the last round (round 4). Ch 1, sc in the front loop only of same stitch and in the front loop only of each st around, slst to first st of round. (30 sc)

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Rnds 6-8: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a slst to first st of round, fasten off, leaving a really long tail to sew the goggle frame together and to sew the entire eye onto the hat. (30 sc)

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ASSEMBLY

Goggle Frame Assembly

Using a tapestry needle, fold the frame in toward the front of the eye and sew the front loop of each stitch of the last round of the goggle frame to the corresponding front loop of each stitch from the last round of the eye. When you finish sewing around the entire frame, do not fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the entire eye to the hat. See pictures below.

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Hat Assembly

Sew the eye onto the front of the hat in the center of the black strip (the goggle strap) using your leftover tail of the silver yarn by going under the stitches from Round 5 (the first round of silver) on the back of the eye. Secure the yarn on the inside of the hat when you are finished sewing completely around the eye and cut off the remaining tail.

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Mouth

Using your tapestry needle and black yarn, stitch a mouth onto the hat using the back stitch into whatever expression you want for your minion. I thought a grin would be cute. Secure your yarn on the inside of the hat and cut off the remaining tail.

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Hair

To do the hair, use your crochet needle (or a latch hook) to latch hook 5 different pieces of black yarn to the top of the hat and then trimmed them down so they stood up straight.  If you are unsure of how to latch hook, all you do is fold a piece of yarn in half, pull the loop end under and up through a stitch in the top of the hat, and then pull the two cut ends through the loop (make sure to pull them hard enough so the loop tightens around them).

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***If you sell products using my patterns or mention my patterns please link back to my site. Please do not sell my patterns or claim them as your own.***

Feel free to post comments here or on my Facebook page!

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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Birthweights

A family member recently asked me to crochet some dumbbells for a baby since she was going to a baby shower for parents who are active in fitness. I thought this was a really cute idea. After making them, I thought they would make a really cute photo prop for a newborn and would also be a great way to display a newborn’s birth weight – just sew/embroider it on the dumbbells!! If you are interested in making the dumbbells, please read below for my pattern. I also included a pattern for a slightly larger set that would be great for a toddler. Another idea would be to adjust the pattern to make a range of sizes and label them with pretend weights so your child has a whole rack of dumbbells!

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BABY DUMBBELLS PATTERN

SIZE

– Baby dumbbell measures approximately 5 inches in length and 2 inches in width

– Toddler dumbbell measures approximately 5.5 inches in length and 2.5 inches in width

**The toddler size is shown below in Navy next to the baby size.

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MATERIALS

– 4.00mm (G) hook

– Worsted weight yarn in your choice of color (I used Caron United yarn in Navy and Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn in Arbor Rose)

– **Yarn in whatever color you would like for the birth weight (I used Caron Simply Soft worsted weight (4) yarn in White).

– **3.25mm (D) hook

– Fiberfill

– Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving in ends

– Scissors

**These materials are needed only if you plan to display the birth weight on your set of dumbbells.

ABBREVIATIONS

ch = chain

– hdc = half double crochet

– hdc dec = half double crochet decrease

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

SPECIAL NOTES

– This pattern is written for the baby size. If you would like to make the toddler size, follow the stitch counts in brackets [ ]. It is the same pattern, but starts with a higher number of stitches.

– Join each round with a slip stitch.

– The first stitch of each round is done in the same stitch as the beginning chain. (All rounds start in same stitch as beginning chain 1).

PATTERN

Rnd 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 [8] hdc in magic circle, join to first hdc with slst. Tuck in and fasten off the loose end. (6 [8] hdc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each stitch around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

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Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

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Rnds 5-6: Ch 1, hdc around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, hdc dec] around, join to first hdc of round with a slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 9: Ch 1, hdc dec around, join to first st of round with slst. (6 [8] hdc)

***You may want to start stuffing this end with fiberfill before moving on to the next round. You could also wait and use a stuffing stick (or the blunt end of a crochet needle) to stuff the project at the end.

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Rnd 10: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (9 [12] hdc)

Rnds 11-13: Ch 1, hdc around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (9 [12] hdc)

***You may want to add some more fiberfill at this point. You could also wait and use a stuffing stick (or the blunt end of a crochet needle) to stuff the project at the end.

Rnd 14: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, hdc dec] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (6 [8] hdc)

Rnd 15: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each stitch around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 16: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 17: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnds 18-19: Ch 1, hdc around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 20: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 21: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, hdc dec] around, join to first hdc of round with a slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 22: Ch 1, hdc dec around, join to first st of round with slst, fasten off, leaving a tail for closing the hole and finishing the piece. (6 [8] hdc)

***Before finishing your dumbbell, make sure to finish stuffing it with fiberfill until it has your desired shape. In order to achieve flat ends on the dumbbell, don’t stuff the ends very tightly. I stuffed the middle of the dumbbell more tightly than the ends.

Finishing: Working from the inside of the hole to the outside, use your tapestry needle to weave the yarn tail under the front loop only of each of the 6 [8] hdc of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the hole. Next, insert your needle through the center of the hole and through that entire end of the dumbbell. Cut your yarn close to the piece where the needle came through the other side. Make sure the cut end goes inside the piece so you can’t see it. You may need to manipulate the dumbbell a little to give it a better shape.

Directions for sewing on the weight information:

I don’t have specific instructions to make individual numbers/letters. All I did was use a 3.25mm hook and white yarn to make a chain for each number/letter. Then I shaped the chain into the specific number/letter and sewed it onto the end of the weight with a tapestry needle. The chains varied in length depending on the number/letter. I used the backbone of the chain when I sewed it into place on the dumbbell.

 

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***If you sell products using my patterns or mention my patterns please link back to my site. Please do not sell my patterns or claim them as your own.***

Feel free to post comments here or on my Facebook page!

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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fathersdayframe

If you are trying to find a last-minute gift to make for Father’s Day this weekend, try this simple idea! Take a picture of your kiddo(s) holding a letter to spell out “DAD” (or whatever name they use for their father). You can buy fancy letters from a craft store (if you are spelling out “DAD”, you only need to buy the letters D and A), or simply make them yourself by cutting them from cardstock. Buy or make a frame with enough picture spaces for each letter of the name. This is a great way to even get babies involved in making their own Father’s Day present.   I did this with my two little ones last year and my husband has it displayed on his desk at work. I used a cute little film roll frame with three picture spaces that I found at Michaels.

Materials

– Letters (I used white wooden letters I bought at Michaels)

– Camera

– Picture frame with enough picture spaces for each letter of the name (I found mine at Michaels)

Directions

  1. Take one picture for each letter of the name you are spelling (if it is a long name, you might want to put more than one letter in the pictures so you don’t have to find a really big frame). Get creative and have fun putting your kids in silly poses.
  2. Develop or print the pictures. We needed square pictures for our frame so we were able to get them at Wal-Mart.
  3. Place the pictures in the frame in the order that the name is spelled.
  4. That’s it! The frame is ready to be gifted. It is sure to be a special gift for the lucky dad that receives it 🙂

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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Teacherwipeoff

I’m really sorry I haven’t posted in a long time but I think I have a pretty good excuse!  We are unexpectedly expecting our third baby (due at the end of November) and I have been having pretty intense morning sickness.  It has definitely hindered my creativity and energy so my blog has gone a bit neglected.  I am about out of the first trimester now so I’m hoping the morning sickness subsides soon.

It is approaching the end of the school year here so if anyone is looking for a creative end-of-year gift for their child’s teacher, make a cute wipe-off board!  Better yet, have your child make one!  It is very simple to make and easy to personalize.  Read below on how to make one.  I also plan to sell a few of these on my Etsy site.

Materials

– 12″ x 12″ scrapbook paper (I found an apple print at Michaels)

– 12″ x 12″ frame

– Plain scrapbook paper for lettering (I used black)

– Clear glue (preferably a kind meant for scrapbooking – I used Elmer’s Craft Bond clear dual tip glue pen)

– Scissors

– Wet or dry erase marker

 

Directions

1. Decide on the phrase/name you would like on your board.  Either use letter stencils or a font on your computer to trace the letters onto your plain scrapbook paper.  I used the font Comic Sans to type my phrase (A+ Teacher) and then traced the letters onto black scrapbook paper.  Then cut the letters out with your scissors.

2. Arrange your letters on top of your decorative 12″ x 12″ scrapbook paper and once you are satisfied, glue them down with the clear glue.  I used a toothpick to help me neatly apply the glue to the backs of the letters.

3. Feel free to add any other embellishments to your paper.

4. Place your decorated scrapbook paper in the picture frame.

5. Write a nice message to your teacher using your dry or wet erase marker.

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6. You are ready to give the wipe-off board to your teacher!

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**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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flowerpenbouqet

Here is an idea for a Mother’s Day gift or just something fun to make for spring! I made this flower pen bouquet for my mom for Mother’s Day about six or seven years ago. She’s a teacher and enjoys gardening so I thought she could use it in her classroom or around the house as a decoration (she does the latter). Make your own and use it to spruce up your house or office! A perk to having flower pens is that it isn’t easy for them to go missing! If you enjoy this project, see also my Turkey Pen Pail.

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Materials

– A decorative container to hold the pens (I used a decorative tin water can)

– Pens

– Artificial flowers with stems

– Green floral tape

Directions

  1. Cut your flower stems so they are only about an inch or two long (just long enough to wrap the stem with the floral tape so that it will hold the flower on the pen).
  2. For each flower pen, hold the stem against the top of the pen and tightly wrap floral tape around it to secure it to the pen and continue wrapping the floral tape around the rest of the pen down to its tip.
  3. Once you have made all of your flower pens, arrange them in your container to make a pretty spring bouquet!

Feel free to post comments here or on my Facebook page!

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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