Crochet,  Post

Witch Legs Scarf


Happy Fall! Halloween is right around the corner so if you are looking for a fairly easy and quick crochet project, try my Witch Legs Scarf pattern! Perfect to wear on a chilly trick-or-treating night! It would be fun to make in many colors. I have a pattern written for both an adult-size scarf and a child-size scarf. It would be simple to change the length for your own perfect fit. I hope you find my Witch Legs Scarf pattern to be a real treat! If it seems a little tricky, try purchasing my ad-free, large print, .pdf pattern and video (over 2 hours long!)  which contain extra pictures and helpful tips when creating your own witch scarf.

PDF pattern with additional photos

TWO hour video AND PDF Pattern

Witch Legs Scarf (ADULT SIZE)

This scarf pattern is written for an adult-size scarf meant to fit most adults. The length can be adjusted by adding or subtracting rows from the body of the scarf. If a child-size scarf is needed, follow the Child-Size scarf pattern found below.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Striped Section: 3¼ inches wide x 33½ inches long (from top of shoe to other top of shoe)

Shoes: 9 inches wide at the widest part (from heel side to toe) x 5¼ inches tall (from bottom of heel to top of shoe)

Total Scarf Measurements:  Approximately 3¼ inches wide (striped section) x 44 inches long (from bottom of heel to bottom of opposite heel)

MATERIALS

– Size H/8/5.00mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in your Main Color (MC) choice (I have previously used Red Heart Super Saver in Pumpkin for orange and Red Heart Super Saver in Spring Green for green.)

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in Black (I used Red Heart Super Saver in Black.)

– Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

– Scissors

– Stitch markers

– OPTIONAL:  3/8 inch decorative ribbon or lace for shoelaces (if you choose not to crochet the laces)

ABBREVIATIONS

– ch = chain

– chs = chains

– sc = single crochet

– sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (single crochet decrease)

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

– MC = Main Color

GAUGE

8 sc = 2 inches; 4 rows = 1 inch

PATTERN NOTES

  • The striped body of the scarf is made first in rows of single crochet. The yarn is cut after each color change. When you cut the yarn after changing color, leave a long enough tail to weave in the ends as you work.
  • You can lengthen or shorten the scarf as needed by adding or deleting stripes (each stripe is 3 rows). Make sure to end your scarf body with a stripe in your main color (MC).
  • When changing color on the stripes, join the new color while completing the last sc (single crochet) of the previous color (by pulling through the new color when you have two loops on the hook in the previous color to complete the final sc) **see pictures below**

 

PDF pattern with additional photos

TWO hour video AND PDF Pattern

DIRECTIONS

Striped Body of Scarf

Row 1: With your chosen Main Color (MC), ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each remaining ch across, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 2: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 3: Sc in next 11 sts, begin sc in 12th st, joining/pulling through black once you have two loops of MC on the hook to complete the sc (see pattern notes), ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 4: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 5: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 6: Sc in next 11 sts, begin sc in 12th st, joining MC to complete the sc, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 7: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 8: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 9: Sc in next 11 sts, begin sc in 12th st, joining black to complete the sc, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Rows 10-147: [Repeat Rows 4-9] 23 times.

***You should now have a scarf with 49 alternating stripes with both ends in your MC. You should also have joined black to complete the last sc of Row 147 so we can continue with the yarn on your hook to start the first shoe.***

Shoe 1

Top of Shoe

You should now have black yarn on your hook after completing the final steps (sc, ch 1, turn) in Row 147 and now we will pick up from there to start the first shoe (Shoe 1) of the scarf. The next row will be called “Row 1” since it starts the top of the shoe. You can continue with the black yarn on your hook to begin Row 1 of the top of Shoe 1.

PDF pattern with additional photos

TWO hour video AND PDF Pattern

Rows 1-4: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)

Row 5: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 11 sts, ch 1, turn. (13 sc)

Row 6: Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in 13th st, ch 1 turn. (14 sc)

Row 7: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 13 sts, ch 1, turn. (15 sc)

Row 8: Sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in 15th st, ch 1, turn. (16 sc)

Row 9: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 15 sts, ch 1, turn. (17 sc)

Row 10: Sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in 17th st, ch 1, turn. (18 sc)

Row 11: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 17 sts, ch 1, turn. (19 sc)

Row 12: Sc in next 18 sts, 2 sc in 19th st, ch 1, turn. (20 sc)

Row 13: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 19 sts, ch 1, turn. (21 sc)

Row 14: Sc in next 6 sts, ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Rows 15-18: Repeat Row 14. At the end of Row 18, fasten off and weave in the loose ends.

Toe of Shoe

Next, hold your work so the heel of the shoe is on the right. Attach your yarn to the 7th st of row 13 (the st next to the heel). This will be where Row 1 of the toe starts.

Row 1: After attaching your yarn to the 7th st of row 13 (the st next to the heel), Ch 1, then starting with the the 7th st of row 13, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 13 sts, ch 7.

Row 2: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 3 chs, ch 1 turn. (4 sc)

Row 3: Sc2tog, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)

Row 4: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)

Row 5: Repeat Row 4.

Row 6: Sc2tog, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)

Row 7: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (4 sc)

Row 8: Sc2tog, sc in next st, 3 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (5 sc)

Row 9: Sc in the 1st st, sc2tog, sc2tog, fasten off and weave in any loose ends. (3 sc)

Bottom of Shoe

Next, turn your work so the heel is on the right again. Attach your yarn to the first st you made in Row 1 of the toe (the decrease you made at the beginning of Row 1). We will call this Row 1 of the bottom of the shoe.

Row 1: After attaching your yarn to the 1st st of Row 1 of the toe, Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 12 sts, sc in next 2 chs, sc in 4 ch spaces, sc in next 2 spaces that were created by the increases in rows 3 and 4 of the toe, slst to the next space on the side of the toe, ch 1, turn. (21 sc)

Row 2: Skipping the slst, sc in next 17 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (19 sc)

Row 3: Sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 13 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (16 sc)

Row 4: Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (13 sc)

Row 5: Sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc2tog. DO NOT fasten off. Leave yarn on hook and follow the directions below to create the shoe border.  (11 sc)

Shoe Finishing/Edging

After completing the last decrease stitch (sc2tog) of Row 5, sc evenly around the shoe perimeter (outside of the shoe) to give it a finished/polished look. Put 3 sc in corners of heel to get a more squared-off effect. You might want to mark your first sc so you know when you have gone around the shoe one time. Pause when you reach the first corner of the top of the shoe (the top corner on the toe side of shoe where the shoe meets the MC stripe) and follow the directions below to make the cuff of the shoe. This is so you can create the top strip/cuff of the shoe.

Cuff of Shoe

When you reach the first (toe-side) corner of the top of the shoe, ch 13 and join to the other corner at the top of the shoe (the heel-side corner) with a slst. Ch 1, then continue to sc evenly around the perimeter of the shoe. Slst to the first sc of the perimeter. Fasten off and weave in loose ends. Follow the next directions to make the cuff for the other side of the shoe.

Cuff of Shoe (Opposite Side)

Turn the shoe over to the other side. Attach yarn to the top right corner of the shoe (the heel side) and ch 13. Join the end of the chain to the other top corner of the shoe with a slst (the toe side). Fasten off, but leave a long tail for sewing the chains on each side down to the top of the shoe.

Sewing the Cuff Down on Each Side

Using your tapestry needle and the long tail you left, sew the chs that will form the cuff of the shoe to the sts in Row 1 of the top of the shoe on one side. There are 13 chains that make the cuff and 13 stitches in Row 1. Insert your thread under the back ridge of each chain to sew to the corresponding stitch of Row 1 of the shoe. Once you have sewn each chain down, use your needle to bring the yarn through to the other side of the shoe and do the same thing to the chains on that side (sew them down to Row 1 using the back ridges).  Weave in the end of the yarn and tie off when finished.

Shoe 2

We will be following the same pattern for Shoe 2 as Shoe 1. Shoe 2 will be attached to the starting chain of your scarf (the other side of the striped scarf body). You first need to figure out where/which side to attach your black yarn. Whichever side you attach your yarn to start the pattern is the side the toe of your shoe will point. Below are instructions on how to figure out where to attach your yarn so Shoe 2 ends up pointing the correct way when you wear it.

 

Orient your scarf as if you have it around your neck. Figure out which direction you want your second shoe to point. You need to attach your black yarn to the starting chain of the scarf on the same side as you would want your shoe to point. This should be the very first chain space that was made in Row 1 of the scarf (if you want your second shoe to point in the opposite direction as the first).

HINT: After you work your first several rows of the pattern, check to make sure your shoe is oriented correctly before continuing further.

Once you attach your black yarn to the first chain space of Row 1, follow the pattern for Shoe 1, except after Row 5 of the bottom of the shoe, before you start to sc evenly around, ch 1 and turn your work so you sc around in the other direction. Still do the Ch 13 once you get to the top (heel-side) corner of the shoe and attach it to the top (toe-side) corner of the shoe before continuing to sc around. Follow the directions for making the cuff for the opposite side of the shoe and sewing the cuffs to the top of the shoe as you did for Shoe 1. Make sure to weave in any loose ends in your work.

Shoelace (Make 2)

The shoelace is actually a long chain. With your MC, ch 160, fasten off. Use your tapestry needle to lace the shoes by making a diagonal pattern down the toe of the shoe and then crisscrossing diagonally the opposite way working back up through the same holes to the top of the shoe. Make sure the ends are even and then you can tie them like shoe laces and weave in any loose ends (weave in the ends of the chain along the back ridges of the chain and fasten off).

OPTIONAL: You can use a decorative ribbon or an actual shoelace to lace the shoes. I would recommend 3/8 inch ribbon. Cut the ribbon to a length of about 35 inches for each shoelace.

Witch Legs Scarf (CHILD SIZE)

**The complete written child-size scarf pattern is available on Etsy, your purchase includes an ad-free, large print .pdf of both the adult and child pattern with additional pictures and hints**

PDF pattern with additional photos

TWO hour video AND PDF Pattern

The Child-Size scarf is meant to fit most children under 12. You can always make it longer or shorter by adding or subtracting rows from the body of the scarf. To make the Child-Size scarf, follow the Adult-Size scarf pattern above, with the below modifications.

Modifications for Child-Size scarf:

  • Use a Size G/6/4.00mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge).
  • The Striped Body of Scarf is only 129 rows/has a total of 43 alternating color stripes (only repeat Rows 4-9 a total of 20 times).
  • Each shoelace is a chain of 140. If you are using ribbon, cut the ribbon to a length of about 28 inches.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Striped Section: 2½ inches wide x 25½  inches long (from top of shoe to other top of shoe)

Shoes: 7¼ inches wide at the widest part (from heel side to toe) x 4½ inches tall (from bottom of heel to top of shoe)

Total Scarf Measurements:  Approximately 2½ inches wide (striped section) x 34½ inches long (from bottom of heel to bottom of opposite heel)

GAUGE

10 sc = 2 inches; 5 rows = 1 inch

PDF pattern with additional photos

TWO hour video AND PDF Pattern

The pattern and photos of this item are the property of TheCrafterLife. This pattern and design are subject to copyright, and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not distribute, sell this pattern, or claim it as your own under any circumstances.

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