Crowster
Crows are a well-known symbol of fall and I’m so excited to release my newest “crowchet” pattern for this fall: The Crowster! In case you couldn’t tell from my play on words, The Crowster is a crocheted coaster shaped like a crow and it would make a great addition to your fall decor! The main areas of my house are decorated in a primitive country style and until I designed this coaster, I didn’t realize how many decorative crows or decorations depicting crows I had around my house! So if you decorate in the primitive country style like me, my Crowster will match your decor the entire year! You can add an eye to give it a more unique look depending on the color and type of eye you choose. I hope you consider making my quick and fun Crowster pattern to put you in the fall spirit or simply because you love crows! The directions are found below.
I also sell a PDF Version of this pattern on ETSY with over 100 helpful pictures
This Crowster pattern is written to be used as a fun and festive coaster for your table/home. It is meant for most standard-size cups/mugs/bottles.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
The main circle body is about 3½ inches in diameter (4 inches across if you include the wing).
The height of the coaster (from top of head straight down to tip of tail is about 6½ inches.
The head is about 3 ¼ inches wide (from left side of head to end of beak).
The longest leg is about 1¾ inches long (from top of leg to bottom of toe) and the short leg is about 1¼ inches long (from top of leg to bottom of toe).
MATERIALS
– Size H/8/5.00mm crochet hook (used for main circle body of pot holder)
– Size F/5/3.75mm crochet hook (used for legs)
– Cotton worsted weight (4) yarn in black (I used Lily Sugar ‘n Cream yarn in Black)
– Tapestry Needle
– Scissors
– Stitch Markers
– OPTIONAL:
– One ⅜” or ¼” button in your eye color choice (if adding a button eye to the Crowster) and matching thread.
– One strand of worsted weight yarn in your eye color choice (if adding an eye made of yarn)
ABBREVIATIONS
– ch = chain
– chs = chains
– dc = double crochet
– hdc = half double crochet
– dc2tog = double crochet 2 together (double crochet decrease)
– sc = single crochet
– sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (single crochet decrease)
– slst = slip stitch
– st = stitch
– sts = stitches
– tc = triple crochet
GAUGE
3 sc rounds of main body has a diameter of approximately 1¼ inches
PATTERN NOTES
- The main circle is worked in continuous rounds. Start the first stitch of each round in the first st of the previous round without any joins or chains. You might want to use stitch markers to mark the beginning/end of rounds.
- The head and wing are made next without reattaching yarn. You will start the head as you would if you were to begin Round 9 of body. You will need to reattach yarn to make the tail and legs. The legs are made with a smaller hook so they are more skinnier in appearance (so you will keep the same yarn on the hook after completing the tail, but you will switch to the smaller hook before making the legs). All body parts are attached to Round 8 of body.
- Brackets [ ] indicate portions of the pattern to be repeated.
DIRECTIONS
Main Circle Body
*Work circle in continuous rounds. Work first stitch of round in first stitch of previous round. Use stitch marker if needed.
*Use your 5.00 mm hook and black cotton yarn to complete the circle body.
*Make sure to pull the magic ring closed and weave in/secure end at closure at the beginning.
HINT: I used a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Round 1: Form a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc in ring, pull ring closed. (6 sc)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Round 3: Repeat [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18 sc)
Round 4: Repeat [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24 sc)
Round 5: Repeat [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (30 sc)
Round 6: Repeat [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (36 sc)
Round 7: Repeat [sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next, sc in next, 2sc in next] twice, sc in last 2 sts of round. (40 sc)
Round 8: Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts, do not fasten off. (42 sc)
***Remember to close the magic ring and weave in end on back of work.
***The main circle body may not lay completely flat at first – it will eventually loosen up and lay flat once you start to use it as a coaster.
***DO NOT fasten off yarn and follow the directions below for the head. The head will begin as if you were starting Round 9.
HINT: You may want to mark the 8th and 21st stitches of Round 8 with stitch markers since the 8th stitch is where you will work a slst to finish the head and the 21st stitch is where you will reattach the yarn to make the tail.
***Leave a stitch marker in the first stitch of Round 9 to help you count the stitches around when you finish the head and attach the tail.
HEAD
*The head starts just like you would start Round 9 and then is worked up in rows. Mark the first stitch with a stitch marker to help you keep track of the stitches around as you work the rest of the body parts.
Row 1: With yarn still attached at the end of Round 8 of body, sc in next 7 sts of Round 8. (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, dc2tog. (1 sc2tog, 1 dc2tog, 3 sc; 5 total sts)
Row 3: Ch 8, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 3 chs, TURN, work 2 dc in last st of Row 2 seepicture, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog. (1 slst, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog; 12 total sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc2tog, hdc in next st, slst in next st (the last dc made in ch 8 of Row 3). (2 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc2tog, 1 slst; 6 total sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, skip slst, slst in next st, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, leave yarn on hook and do not fasten off. (1 slst, 4 sc, 1 sc2tog; 6 total sts)
***Follow the directions below to finish the head.
DO NOT turn work. With yarn still on hook at the end of Row 5 of Head, work 5 sc evenly down left side of head, slst in next st (the 8th st) of Round 8 of body, do not fasten off.
***The head is now finished. With yarn still on hook, follow the directions below to begin the wing.
WING
*Keep yarn on hook to begin making the wing. The wing is worked in the 9th through 19th stitches of Round 8.
Row 1: With yarn still on hook, hdc in the next 2 sts (the 9th & 10th sts) of Round 8 of body, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, work (hdc, 2 dc, tc) in next st, fasten off, weave in loose ends. (9 hdc, 4 dc, 1 sc, 1 tc; 15 total sts)
***The wing is now finished. After weaving in loose ends on back of work, follow the directions below to begin the tail.
I also sell a PDF Version of this pattern on ETSY with over 100 helpful pictures
TAIL
*Work tail in rows. The three tail feathers are created in Row 3.
*Use your 5.00 mm hook and black cotton yarn to complete the tail.
Hold the main circle body so that the right side (front side) is facing. Attach black yarn to the 21st st of Round 8 (it should be the stitch that is 2 stitches over from the stitch you last worked in for the wing) of the main circle body. Then begin Row 1 of the tail.
Row 1: Attach yarn to the 21st st of Round 8 of body, ch 1, sc in same st (21st st of Round 8), 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc2tog. (3 dc2tog)
Row 3: Ch 5, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 chs, turn, slst in last (3rd) st of Row 2, slst in next (2nd) st of Row 2, ch 7, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 chs, slst in next (1st) st of Row 2, ch 5, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 chs, sc in same (1st) st of Row 2, leave yarn on hook and do not fasten off. (6 slst, 12 sc; 18 total sts)
***Follow the directions below to finish the tail.
DO NOT turn work. With yarn still on hook at the end of Row 3 of Tail, work 2 slst evenly down side of tail (the side furthest from wing), slst in next st (the 25th st) of Round 8 of body, do not fasten off.
***The tail is now finished. With yarn still on hook, follow the directions below.
With yarn still on hook after completing the tail, slst in next 2 sts (the 26th & 27th sts) of Round 8 of body, do not fasten off, switch to a size 3.75mm hook.
***Follow the directions below to begin the legs using your body 3.75mm hook.
LEGS
*Use your 3.75 mm hook to work the legs.
Leg 1 (Long Leg/Front Leg)
With yarn still on 3.75mm hook, ch 4, sc2tog (the 2nd and 3rd chs from hook), ch 10, slst in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 chs, ch 4, slst in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 chs, ch 5, slst in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs, working back up the leg, slst in ch at base of short claw (1st ch of second ch-4), slst in ch at base of long claw (5th ch of ch-10), slst in next 4 chs of leg (1st 4 chs of ch-10), sc in 2nd and 1st chs of beginning ch-4, slst in next st (the 28th st) of Round 8 of body.
***Do not fasten off. Follow the directions below to work Leg 2.
Leg 2 (Short Leg/Back Leg
Slst in next 3 sts (29th-31st sts) of Round 8 of body, ch 3, sc2tog (the 2nd and 3rd chs from the hook), ch 9, slst in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 chs, ch 4, slst in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 chs, ch 5, slst in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs, slst in ch at base of short claw (1st ch of ch-4), slst in ch at base of long claw (4th ch of ch-9), slst in next 3 chs of leg (first 3 chs of ch-9), sc in 1st ch, slst in next st (the 32nd st) of Round 8 of body, fasten off and weave in loose ends on back of work.
*The legs are now complete. Fasten off and weave in all loose ends on back of work. Shape the toes/claws of the feet so they resemble the toes/claws of a real crow by manipulating them with your hands until you achieve your desired appearance. If you choose to add an eye to your Crowster, follow the directions below. Otherwise, you are finished an ready to use your Crowster!
OPTIONAL EYE
You can add an eye to your Crowster by attaching a button or stitching one on with yarn in your choice of size and color.
Button Eye
In the pictures shown with button eyes, I used a ⅜” button for a larger eye and a ¼” button for a smaller eye. I think either of these sizes would work for the Crowster, depending on which one you like best. I also tried several colors of buttons including black, red, maroon, orange, opaque white, and a grayish black. My personal favorite button was the grayish black button. A red, maroon, or orange eye gives it a more creepy look for Halloween. I found all of the buttons I used in assorted Favorite Findings packs I purchased at Walmart.
In order to attach your button, simply place it where you would like the eye positioned and use a sewing/tapestry needle and matching yarn/thread to sew it in place, making sure to secure your yarn/thread on the back of the work.
Yarn Eye
I made an eye using yarn by cutting a strand of yarn, knotting it in the middle about 3-4 times in the same place to create a larger knot, and then pulling both ends of the strand of yarn through from the front of the Crowster head to the back of the head in order to position the knot where I wanted the eye to be placed. Last, I knotted the ends together on the back and cut them off after weaving them in enough so they were secure. I tried several colors of yarn as well and my personal favorite was a light gray color. I also liked maroon for the eye since it gave the crow a creepy appearance.
*You might also try stitching an eye on directly with your chosen color of yarn and tapestry needle.
***Once you weave in/secure all the loose ends, your Crowster is finished and ready to be used!
Questions? Concerns? Please contact me at email TheCrafterLifeBlog@gmail.com
This pattern is property of TheCrafterLife.comYou may not sell my patterns or claim them as your own. You may make items to sell (i.e. on Etsy) from my patterns but I ask that you link back to my site (TheCrafterLife.com) and provide credit for the pattern. You are welcome to share my patterns on social media as long as you link back directly to my site by providing the link. No copying and pasting of any patterns will be allowed under any circumstances.
