I’m excited to share with you that I will soon be a consultant for LuLaRoe, which is an awesome clothing company! The clothes are versatile and can be worn in many ways to fit any style. Most importantly, they are extremely comfortable and flattering. LuLaRoe offers many different styles that range in size from XXS to 3XL. Their leggings are sooo comfortable, earning the nickname “butter leggings” due to their softness, and come in many exclusive prints. The company is unique in that there are only a limited number of prints produced so you don’t have to worry about wearing the same outfit as someone else. I’m sure many of you have heard of LuLaRoe, and may even be consultants or shoppers yourselves. Whether or not you are familiar with LuLaRoe, please check out my Facebook Page where I will be featuring the various styles offered, taking polls, holding giveaways, explaining promotions, and answering any and all questions. I also hope to see you in my VIP group when I begin selling! Even if you are not local to my area, you can host a party with me online to earn free clothes. I am part of an amazing and very supportive team, so if you are interested in the opportunity to become a consultant, please send me a message on Facebook. I really appreciate all of your support in making my business successful, so I am offering the following to you while I begin this new venture:

CHANCE TO WIN FREE LEGGINGS/$25 OFF!!!

“LIKE” my LuLaRoe Facebook page to continue to receive updates and information on promotions and giveaways. Join my VIP shopping group and LIKE my Welcome Post BEFORE my first online launch party to be entered in a chance to win your choice of either a FREE pair of leggings or $25 OFF a purchase of $25 or more!

FREE LEGGINGS & OTHER ITEMS!!!

Host a Pop-Up Boutique with me either online or in person to earn free leggings (or $25 OFF a purchase of $25 or more). You also receive a free item for every ten items sold at your party. Invite as many people as you can! The more the merrier!

FREE ITEMS!!!

Receive a free item of your choice for every ten items you buy from me.

$10 OFF DISCOUNT OFFER!!!

Join my VIP shopping group on Facebook (accessed through my Facebook business page) and make any purchase during my initial online launch party to receive $10 off your next purchase! The largest order during my launch party will also receive a set of my crocheted coasters!!!

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I decided to make some coasters to use as gifts for my hosts/hostesses of my Pop-Up Boutiques. If you are interested in making them for your own personal use, please see my pattern below and follow it one “roe” at a time. Please be sure to read the disclaimer below the pattern and follow its guidance.

 

COASTER PATTERN

 

SIZE

The finished coaster is approximately 4.5 inches by 4.5 inches.

 

MATERIALS

– 2.0 mm (H) hook

– Aunt Lydia’s Size 10 Classic Cotton Crochet Thread in Aqua, White, Delft Blue, Purple, Wood Violet, French Rose, Pumpkin, and Golden Yellow

– Tapestry/sewing needle for sewing and weaving in ends

– Scissors

 

ABBREVIATIONS

– ch = chain

– chs = chains

– rnd = round

– sc = single crochet

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

 

GUAGE

9 sc = 1 inch

9 sc rounds = 1 inch

 

SPECIAL NOTES

– Fasten off before each color change and attach new color to a corner chain-2 space.

– Join the end of each round to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch.

– The first stitch of each round should start in the same stitch/space as your ch 1.

 

PATTERN

Start with Aqua yarn. Ch 4 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 4 sc in ring, join with a sl st. (4 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, [sc, ch 2, sc] in same st, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in next st, [sc, ch 2, sc] in next st, [sc, ch 2, sc] in last st, join to first sc, fasten off.  (4 corners made)

Rnd 3: Attach White yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next two sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. *Sc in next four sts. In next ch-2 space, [sc, ch 2, sc]. Repeat from * twice. Sc in next three sts, join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: Attach Delft yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next six sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc. Fasten off.

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Rnd 6: Attach White yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next eight sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. *Sc in next ten sts. In next ch-2 space, [sc, ch 2, sc]. Repeat from * twice. Sc in next nine sts, join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: Attach Purple yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next twelve sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 9: Attach White yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next fourteen sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc.

Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. *Sc in next sixteen sts. In next ch-2 space, [sc, ch 2, sc]. Repeat from * twice. Sc in next fifteen sts, join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 11: Attach Wood Violet yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next eighteen sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 12: Attach White yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next twenty sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc.

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Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. *Sc in next twenty-two sts. In next ch-2 space, [sc, ch 2, sc]. Repeat from * twice. Sc in next twenty-one sts, join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 14: Attach French Rose yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next twenty-four sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 15: Attach White yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next twenty-six sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc.

Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. *Sc in next twenty-eight sts. In next ch-2 space, [sc, ch 2, sc]. Repeat from * twice. Sc in next twenty-seven sts, join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 17: Attach Pumpkin yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next thirty sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 18: Attach White yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next thirty-two sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc.

Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in same st as ch, [sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. *Sc in next thirty-four sts. In next ch-2 space, [sc, ch 2, sc]. Repeat from * twice. Sc in next thirty-three sts, join to first sc. Fasten off.

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Rnd 20: Attach Golden Yellow yarn to a corner ch-2 space. Ch 1, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in corner ch-2 space. Sc in next thirty-six sts. Repeat from * three more times around. Join to first sc. Fasten off.

 

Once you weave in all of your loose ends, your coaster is done and you are ready to have a drink and relax…unless you want to make a whole set 😉

 

***Unlike my usual patterns, you CANNOT sell the coasters made using this pattern as it is an official logo for LuLaRoe and I was only granted permission to give away these coasters or share this pattern for free. You may only make these coasters for personal use and cannot profit from them. You must contact LuLaRoe if you would like to use these beyond your own personal use.***

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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I hope everyone has a safe and happy Fourth of July! This is a little embarrassing to admit, but I planned to post these yarn-wrapped letters last year and never finished them in time. I just finished them today! It’s a good feeling because I hate having unfinished craft projects sitting around for a long time. These would be great to sit on a shelf or hang for a decoration. If you are a fan of the summer Olympics, you could make them to show your support. Below are my instructions to make them if you are interested. Feel free to embellish them any way you wish! You may also want to refer to my Christmas yarn-wrapped letters or Halloween yarn-wrapped letters for further instructions.

Materials:

– Wood craft letters: U, S, A (I found mine at Wal-Mart)

– Hot glue gun/glue***

– Scissors

– Red sparkle yarn

– Blue sparkle yarn (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour yarn in Sapphire)

– White sparkle yarn

– Embellishments of your choice (I used glittery stars I found at Michaels)

***You will need a lot of glue for this! I did not expect to use as much glue as I did.

Directions:

1. Wrap the letter U with red yarn. Use hot glue to help hold the yarn in place as you wrap.  It may even help to cut small strips to fill in areas that are missed by wrapping.  USAyarnwrapped2

2. Wrap the letter S with white yarn. Use hot glue to help hold the yarn in place as you wrap.  It may even help to cut small strips to fill in areas that are missed by wrapping.

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3. Wrap the letter A with blue yarn. Use hot glue to help hold the yarn in place as you wrap.  It may even help to cut small strips to fill in areas that are missed by wrapping. The A was a little tricky since it has a hole. I vertically wrapped the bottom to make it easier and then later went back over it by wrapping the yarn in a horizontal direction.

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4. If you choose, add some embellishments to your letters. I used my hot glue gun to glue red, white, and blue glittery stars to my letters.

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Share your yarn-wrapped letters here or on my facebook page! Do you have any unfinished craft projects that have been sitting around for a long time? Use this weekend to finish them and share your creations on one (or both) of my pages!

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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I designed a Minion bib to go along with my Minion hat that I shared in my last post. I wanted the bib to resemble the overalls worn by the Minions. As promised, below is the pattern for the Minion bib! Enjoy!

MINION BIB PATTERN

SIZE

Newborn – 3 months

MATERIALS

– 5.5mm (I) hook

– Lion Brand Heartland worsted weight (4) yarn in Olympic (trim of hat)

– Black felt

– (2) 7/8” (22mm) 4-hole black buttons

– (1) 1” (28mm) 2-hole black button

– Black thread

– Sewing needle

– Tapestry needle

– Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS

– ch = chain

– chs = chains

– sc = single crochet

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

 

BIB PATTERN

 

Row 1: Ch 26, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (25 sc)

Rows 2-25: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (25 sc)

Row 26: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sts across. (6 sc)

Rows 27-35: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sts across. (6 sc)

Row 36: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sts, then ch 20. (6 sc, 20 ch)

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Row 37: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch/st across (including the 6 sc from the beginning of Row 36). (25 sc)

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Rows 38-42: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, at the end of Row 42, fasten off and weave in loose ends. (25 sc)

**Follow the directions below to add the strap on the other side of the bib.

Row 26 (on other side of bib): Attach yarn to the first st of Row 25. Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts across. (6 sc)

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Rows 27-38: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 6 sts across. (6 sc)

*Row 39: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 4, sc in last st. (2 sc, 4 ch)

*Row 39 makes the button hole for the bib.

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Row 40: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, sc in each of next 4 chs, sc in last st. (6 sc)

Rows 41-42: Ch 1, turn, sc in each of next 6 sts across. At the end of Row 42, do not fasten off (continue with edging directions below. (6 sc)

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Edging: Starting where you left off in Row 42, sc evenly around the entire perimeter of the bib to give it a neat outline. Once you have gone around the entire bib, join to first sc with a slst and fasten off, weaving in loose ends.

 

Bib Pocket

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (6 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st. (8 sc)

Rows 4-5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st. (10 sc)

Rows 7-8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10 sc)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st. (12 sc)

Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, do not fasten off (continue with the edging directions below). (12 sc)

 

Edging: Sc evenly around the entire pocket to give it a neat outline. Once you have gone around the entire pocket, join to first sc with a slst and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the pocket onto the bib.

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Pocket Logo

In order to make the Gru symbol on the pocket of the bib, I drew it onto black felt. After cutting it out of the felt, I sewed it onto the bib pocket using black thread. If you perform a Google Image search for the Minion symbol (or Gru symbol) you may wish to resize the image so it fits on the pocket, print it out, cut it out, and trace it onto black felt if you aren’t up to hand-drawing it. As a hint, if you do trace it, trace it upside down on the black felt so the tracing lines end up on the back and don’t show on the front.

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ASSEMBLY

  1. Sew the Minion/Gru symbol (made of black felt) onto the center of the pocket using a sewing needle and black thread. Secure thread underneath the pocket before cutting the tail. minionbib9
  2. Use a tapestry needle and your long tail you left on the pocket to sew the pocket to the center of the front of the bib. Only stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket to the front, remembering to leave the top open to use as a “pocket”. minionbib10 minionbib13
  3. Using denim blue yarn and a sewing needle, sew the two 7/8” black (four-hole) buttons on each side of the top of the bib where the buttons would sit for the Minion overalls.minionbib11000
  4. Using denim blue yarn and a sewing needle, sew the 1” black (two-hole) button on the right side of the top horizontal strip of the bib in the center. Make sure it lines up to the button hole on the right bib strap. minionbib12
  5. Make sure all loose yarn/thread ends are woven in neatly on the backside of the bib and you are finished!

Don’t forget to make the Minion hat to match your bib!minion6

***If you sell products using my patterns or mention my patterns please link back to my site. Please do not sell my patterns or claim them as your own.***

Feel free to post comments here or on my Facebook page!

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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minion6

I recently attended one of my cousin’s baby showers and decided to make a Minion hat and bib set to give to her for her baby boy.  I thought it turned out pretty cute so I’m thinking of making another set for our baby-to-be.  We aren’t finding out what we are having so I guess I could always add a bow if it turns out to be a girl!  I am sharing the hat pattern with you in this post and I will share the bib pattern in my next post so stay tuned!  Please read below if you are interested in making a baby Minion hat of your own.

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HAT PATTERN

SIZE

Newborn – 3 months

MATERIALS

– 5.5mm (I) hook

– Caron United worsted weight (4) yarn in Mustard (main hat color and eyelid)

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in Black (strap of goggles, eye pupil, mouth, and hair)

– Lion Brand Heartland worsted weight (4) yarn in Olympic (trim of hat)

– Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice worsted weight (4) yarn in Rust (eye color)

– Worsted weight (4) yarn in White (eye)

– Loops & Threads Impeccable Glitter worsted weight (4) yarn in Sterling (goggle frame)

– Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving in ends

– Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS

– ch = chain

– sc = single crochet

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

SPECIAL NOTES

The first stitch of each round of the hat is done in the same stitch as the beginning chain. (All rounds start in the same stitch as beginning chain 1).

– Make sure to join your rounds to the first single crochet of the round with a slip stitch.

 

PATTERN

Main Hat

Rnd 1: Starting with yellow yarn, magic circle, 6 sc in circle, join to first sc of round. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join to first sc of round. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, repeat [sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st] around, join to first sc of round. (45 sc)

Rnds 9-11: Change yarn color to black, ch 1, sc in each st around, join to first sc of round. (45 sc)

Rnds 12-22: Change color back to yellow, ch 1, sc in each st around, join to last sc of round. (45 sc)

Rnd 23: Change yarn color to denim blue (or whatever color you want for the trim, ch 1, sc in each st around, join to last st of round, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. (45 sc)

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Eye

Keep the back of the eye neat and easier to manage by running your loose ends under the stitches in the back so that the yarn “follows” your stitches around and is there when you need it for a color change.

Rnd 1: Using black yarn, magic circle, 8 sc in magic circle, join to first sc with sl st. (8 sc)

Rnd 2: Attach yellow yarn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st of Rnd 1 and in next 2 sts, sc in next st, **on the last yellow sc (the 7th sc), pull though brown yarn to attach brown yarn***, using brown yarn (and making sure to run your yellow tail under the brown stitches in the back of the work), sc in same st, 2 sc in remaining 4 sts of round, slst to first yellow sc of round, pulling though yellow yarn for slst. (7 yellow sc +9 white sc = 16 sc)

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The two pictures below show how to keep the back easier to work with by placing your brown (rust) stitches over the yellow tail so the yellow tail “follows” the stitches around so it’s right where you need it when you pick it up again. The pictures are taken from the back of the eye.

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The two pictures below show how to pull the yellow yarn through for the slip stitch at the end of the round.  Since the brown stitches were placed over the yellow tail in the back as shown in the two pictures above, the yellow yarn was exactly at the last brown stitch making it easy to change colors.

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Rnd 3: (You should now have changed color to yellow) Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st pulling through white yarn to change color to white, with white yarn (making sure to run your yellow tail under the stitches on the back so that the tail follows the circle around), 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, slst to first st of round, pulling through yellow yarn for slst. (10 yellow sc + 14 white sc = 24 sc)

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Rnd 4: With yellow yarn (making sure to run your white tail under the stitches in the back), ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, pulling through white yarn to change color on the second st, with white yarn (making sure to run your yellow tail under the stitches in the back), sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, slst to first st of round, pulling through yellow for slst, fasten off, leaving a long tail to slip stitch the yellow line across the bottom of the eyelid. Weave in all other loose ends on the back of the eye. Follow the directions below to embroider the eyelid line. (12 yellow sc + 18 white sc = 30 sc)

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Directions for Eyelid Line: Use a tapestry needle to chain stitch a line across the eye where the yellow section meets the bottom section of the eye. Do this by inserting the needle through the loop made after fastening off, then under the eye and back up through the front making sure to loop the tail end around the needle to create a chain stitch. Continue doing this across the eye by inserting the needle through the loop you just created. See pictures below for reference. Once you reach the end, weave the tail into the back of the eye to secure it and fasten off.

**You can also make the eyelid line using surface slip stitches with your crochet needle instead of fastening off and using a tapestry needle. There are tutorials around the web on how to surface slip stitch in crochet. I just prefer to use a tapestry needle to do this.

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***Round 5 starts the goggle frame. Make sure to crochet the rounds of the frame so that the back of the eye is face up. The right side of the work (goggle frame) should end up on the back of the eye so that when you fold the frame over to sew it, the right side ends up on the outside. Refer to the pictures for guidance.

Rnd 5: Turn the eye over so the back is on top (this is so the right side ends up towards the back of the eye). Attach silver sparkle yarn to the front loop only (which is actually the back loop if you are looking from the front of the eye) of a stitch from the last round (round 4). Ch 1, sc in the front loop only of same stitch and in the front loop only of each st around, slst to first st of round. (30 sc)

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Rnds 6-8: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a slst to first st of round, fasten off, leaving a really long tail to sew the goggle frame together and to sew the entire eye onto the hat. (30 sc)

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ASSEMBLY

Goggle Frame Assembly

Using a tapestry needle, fold the frame in toward the front of the eye and sew the front loop of each stitch of the last round of the goggle frame to the corresponding front loop of each stitch from the last round of the eye. When you finish sewing around the entire frame, do not fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the entire eye to the hat. See pictures below.

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Hat Assembly

Sew the eye onto the front of the hat in the center of the black strip (the goggle strap) using your leftover tail of the silver yarn by going under the stitches from Round 5 (the first round of silver) on the back of the eye. Secure the yarn on the inside of the hat when you are finished sewing completely around the eye and cut off the remaining tail.

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Mouth

Using your tapestry needle and black yarn, stitch a mouth onto the hat using the back stitch into whatever expression you want for your minion. I thought a grin would be cute. Secure your yarn on the inside of the hat and cut off the remaining tail.

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Hair

To do the hair, use your crochet needle (or a latch hook) to latch hook 5 different pieces of black yarn to the top of the hat and then trimmed them down so they stood up straight.  If you are unsure of how to latch hook, all you do is fold a piece of yarn in half, pull the loop end under and up through a stitch in the top of the hat, and then pull the two cut ends through the loop (make sure to pull them hard enough so the loop tightens around them).

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***If you sell products using my patterns or mention my patterns please link back to my site. Please do not sell my patterns or claim them as your own.***

Feel free to post comments here or on my Facebook page!

**If you like what you see, feel free to pin, share, and link back to my site.  Thank you for visiting!

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Birthweights

A family member recently asked me to crochet some dumbbells for a baby since she was going to a baby shower for parents who are active in fitness. I thought this was a really cute idea. After making them, I thought they would make a really cute photo prop for a newborn and would also be a great way to display a newborn’s birth weight – just sew/embroider it on the dumbbells!! If you are interested in making the dumbbells, please read below for my pattern. I also included a pattern for a slightly larger set that would be great for a toddler. Another idea would be to adjust the pattern to make a range of sizes and label them with pretend weights so your child has a whole rack of dumbbells!

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BABY DUMBBELLS PATTERN

SIZE

– Baby dumbbell measures approximately 5 inches in length and 2 inches in width

– Toddler dumbbell measures approximately 5.5 inches in length and 2.5 inches in width

**The toddler size is shown below in Navy next to the baby size.

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MATERIALS

– 4.00mm (G) hook

– Worsted weight yarn in your choice of color (I used Caron United yarn in Navy and Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn in Arbor Rose)

– **Yarn in whatever color you would like for the birth weight (I used Caron Simply Soft worsted weight (4) yarn in White).

– **3.25mm (D) hook

– Fiberfill

– Tapestry needle for sewing and weaving in ends

– Scissors

**These materials are needed only if you plan to display the birth weight on your set of dumbbells.

ABBREVIATIONS

ch = chain

– hdc = half double crochet

– hdc dec = half double crochet decrease

– slst = slip stitch

– st = stitch

– sts = stitches

SPECIAL NOTES

– This pattern is written for the baby size. If you would like to make the toddler size, follow the stitch counts in brackets [ ]. It is the same pattern, but starts with a higher number of stitches.

– Join each round with a slip stitch.

– The first stitch of each round is done in the same stitch as the beginning chain. (All rounds start in same stitch as beginning chain 1).

PATTERN

Rnd 1: Magic circle, ch 1, 6 [8] hdc in magic circle, join to first hdc with slst. Tuck in and fasten off the loose end. (6 [8] hdc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each stitch around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

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Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

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Rnds 5-6: Ch 1, hdc around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, hdc dec] around, join to first hdc of round with a slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 9: Ch 1, hdc dec around, join to first st of round with slst. (6 [8] hdc)

***You may want to start stuffing this end with fiberfill before moving on to the next round. You could also wait and use a stuffing stick (or the blunt end of a crochet needle) to stuff the project at the end.

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Rnd 10: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (9 [12] hdc)

Rnds 11-13: Ch 1, hdc around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (9 [12] hdc)

***You may want to add some more fiberfill at this point. You could also wait and use a stuffing stick (or the blunt end of a crochet needle) to stuff the project at the end.

Rnd 14: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, hdc dec] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (6 [8] hdc)

Rnd 15: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each stitch around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 16: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st] around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 17: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnds 18-19: Ch 1, hdc around, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 20: Ch 1, hdc around working in the back loops only, join to first hdc of round with slst. (18 [24] hdc)

Rnd 21: Ch 1, repeat [hdc in first st, hdc dec] around, join to first hdc of round with a slst. (12 [16] hdc)

Rnd 22: Ch 1, hdc dec around, join to first st of round with slst, fasten off, leaving a tail for closing the hole and finishing the piece. (6 [8] hdc)

***Before finishing your dumbbell, make sure to finish stuffing it with fiberfill until it has your desired shape. In order to achieve flat ends on the dumbbell, don’t stuff the ends very tightly. I stuffed the middle of the dumbbell more tightly than the ends.

Finishing: Working from the inside of the hole to the outside, use your tapestry needle to weave the yarn tail under the front loop only of each of the 6 [8] hdc of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the hole. Next, insert your needle through the center of the hole and through that entire end of the dumbbell. Cut your yarn close to the piece where the needle came through the other side. Make sure the cut end goes inside the piece so you can’t see it. You may need to manipulate the dumbbell a little to give it a better shape.

Directions for sewing on the weight information:

I don’t have specific instructions to make individual numbers/letters. All I did was use a 3.25mm hook and white yarn to make a chain for each number/letter. Then I shaped the chain into the specific number/letter and sewed it onto the end of the weight with a tapestry needle. The chains varied in length depending on the number/letter. I used the backbone of the chain when I sewed it into place on the dumbbell.

 

Birthweights2

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